What value means in 2026: A conversation with Clare Waight Keller
The fashion industry has reached a definitive turning point. Differentiation is no longer just about volume; it’s about a new formula for value – one that balances functional excellence with radical simplicity.
To lead these conversations, we are proud to introduce the new guest anchor for Business Casual: Anita Balchandani. As a Senior Partner at McKinsey & Company, Anita heads the Consumer sector in the UK and the Apparel, Fashion & Luxury practice across EMEA.
In this episode, Anita sits down with Clare Waight Keller, the Global Creative Director at Uniqlo. Clare’s career has defined the heights of modern luxury, with previous roles as Artistic Director at Givenchy and Creative Director at Chloé. Now, she is applying that same uncompromising eye for detail to Uniqlo’s “LifeWear” philosophy, proving that mass scale and meticulous design aren’t mutually exclusive.
Together, Anita and Clare explore the transition from luxury to global retail, the role of instinct in a world of algorithms, and why true perfection requires the one thing the industry rarely gives: time.
From thousands to millions
Anita Balchandani: Clare, you had a fantastic transition from the world of luxury to the world of UNIQLO. Talk to us about that transition—what feels similar and what feels different?
Clare Waight Keller: I think my personal approach to design and research remains the same. The principles I took from working in luxury for 10 years in Paris, Milan and London—that deep focus and method—have been easy to integrate into the UNIQLO culture. But the scale is wildly different. It is quite unfathomable when you are on the outside. I went from talking about things in the thousands of units to suddenly talking about millions. It was daunting at the beginning, but four years in, I’m quite comfortable with it.
The "strip back" philosophy
Anita Balchandani: Many brands talk about "elevation" as a key strategy, but that needs to coexist with value and affordability. How do you balance the two?
Clare Waight Keller: At UNIQLO, we almost simplify everything. It’s a very Japanese philosophy: nothing is superfluous. I’m often in meetings with our founder, Mr. Yanai, and he’ll ask, “Is that necessary? Do we need that?”. It’s about stripping it all back to the essence of a perfected design.
I’m often in meetings with our founder, Mr. Yanai, and he’ll ask, “Is that necessary? Do we need that?”. It’s about stripping it all back to the essence of a perfected design.
Why perfection takes time
Anita Balchandani: The industry is obsessed with speed. You’ve talked about researching fabrics two years in advance. How do you think about speed and relevance?
Clare Waight Keller: We are the antithesis. I only do two collections a year now; at Givenchy, I did 10. That allows for a real intensity and scrutiny of everything we do. Nothing goes through to production unless it is almost 100% perfect. In a Japanese brand, there is no room for error, and they really value the time needed to negate that error. If it isn't perfect this season, they are fine with taking another year to develop it.
Instinct over algorithms
Anita Balchandani: How do you use data and AI in your creative process?
Clare Waight Keller: For me, the beginning of the process is very analog and instinctual. It’s a subconscious built over decades of experience. I use data further down the line, mostly from our scientists and customers. We look at how the functions we offer perform for the customer and ensure those two are working in tandem.
The future of the "real retailer"
Anita Balchandani: Omnichannel is obviously important. How do you think about the mix of product across channels?
Clare Waight Keller: Interestingly, Uniqlo’s e-commerce is much smaller than a lot of other people. We are real retailers. Hundreds of millions of people come through our doors, especially leading up to Christmas. Mr. Yanai believes in that feeling where you can touch everything. It’s about helping the customer help themselves. Often, social media or online is the first touch point, but retail is where we see most of our customers.
Focus is a skill
Anita Balchandani: What is the one piece of advice you’d have for brands today?
Clare Waight Keller: Focus. At UNIQLO, we are constantly readjusting, refocusing and fine-tuning. Often in this industry, you just see a lack of focus. It is a special skill that should be honed more.
